The Bo-Kaap (“above the Cape” in Afrikaans) is an area in Cape Town formerly known as the Malay Quarter which is situated on the upper sidelines of Cape Town city centre hugging the slopes of Signal Hill.
With the backdrop of Table Mountain and brightly coloured homes and former cobbled stone streets, it’s an area rich in history and core of the Cape Malay culture in Cape Town. The Cape Malays are descendants of enslaved and free Muslims from different parts of the world who lived at the Cape during British and Dutch rule.
The bright colours of the homes are freshly painted and no one home can have the same colour as their neighbours is custom. You can have a different shade of blue, pink or green but not the same shade!
Initially Malays were from the Dutch colonies of South East Asia who were practising Muslims and scholars came to teach in the Bo-Kaap and bring their wisdom to the area.
Due to the origins of the spice trade and links to Malaysia, India and other SE Asian countries, Cape Malay cooking is popular in South African cooking. The community played an important part in the creation of local dishes which are a favourite of many locals and expats living overseas today.
Cape Malay or Cape Dutch cooking utilises eastern spices including chilli peppers, nutmeg, starseed, coriander, and cinnamon to name a few influences by the slaves brought by the Dutch East India Company to the Cape and from the Dutch settlers from the Netherlands.
If you like curries, stews, sambals or picked fish you won’t be disappointed by the dishes on offer locally. A South African favourite I like to make is Bobotie a spicy mince meat baked dish with an egg based baked topping. Served with yellow rice both these dishes have Cape Malay origins. A dollop of Mrs Balls Chutney and friends are smiling sitting around the dinner table and you’re on fire!
If you want to find out more I highly recommend a walking tour or a visit to the local history museums. Zainie Misbach and her family offer ‘The Bo-Kaap Cooking Tour’ which is a great way to embrace and learn more about the Cape Malay traditions, and customs dating back to 400 years of food, culture and religious practices.
Whilst back to visit my former home and friends I decided to embrace the local community and met up with the local family who have been running cooking lessons and walking tours. I spent Saturday exploring the streets, visiting the local spice merchant Atlas Trading Company which has been around since 1946.
Of course I had to pick up my old favourite masalas which I frequently used when I lived in Cape Town: mother in law masala (hot spicy heat), father in law masala (low spicy heat) and the medium heat leaf masala. Top tip when grating fresh turmeric is to wear surgical gloves unless you wanted yellow stained fingers! Fresh curry leaves are used to make tea and have many health benefits including to lower cholesterol and high blood pressure with calming and relaxing side affects too. I know I’ll be looking out for them next time I visit my local Asian cooking supplier in Sussex.
We then headed over to Rose Street to learn how to make dhaltjies (chilli bites), samoosas, a traditional Cape Malay Chicken Curry and rooti. Afterwards we sat down and enjoyed a laden table of the dishes we had cooked together.
I highly recommend a visit to this rich area full of history and to explore an area where once a upon time homes were rented only; until apartheid restrictions were torn down and now local residents enjoy the freedoms their ancestors did not have.
The walking tour is fascinating and listening to Zayed and Zoelfah share the highlights of their family growing up in the area, the 12 noon gun salute shaking the homes and light fittings, and generations of stories make it a unique experience as a local or a visitor. The chatty and humorous family are full of joy and share openly about their community and tips to make Bo-Kaap soul food come to life.
The people are beautiful and I feel like I’m home again stepping back into moments and memories of my old life. Reconnecting with friends, the local people, the hum; it’s an energy that weaves through everything I find hard to describe. I’ve lived in other countries and travelled far, but Cape Town will always have a very special place in my heart. There’s something very special about the Mother City and the Bo-Kaap is one reason of many.
